Friday, May 20, 2016

Square Wire - Things That Dangle

Today we will discuss the square wire hangers Juliana (D&E) used.  Square wire is how D&E attached articulated items to their jewelry. As in beads, drops, and other things that should move.  
Notice that the hangers that the beads attach to is square.
Usually the square wire is attached to the jewelry with a rivet.
Notice the rivets that are attaching the square wire to the brooch.
Sometimes there was no way to use a rivet in the location that they wanted to put a dangle so they would just solder the same square wire hanger to the jewelry setting.

Notice there is no rivet but they soldered the same finding they usually riveted on to the back of the setting.
There are a handful of D&E items that did not use square wire for attaching things that move and that is because it would have been impossible to use a rivet and square wire in that design.  So they used a setting that had a loop built in.
The bead at the top of the design uses square wire but the ones at the bottom do not since they are attached to navettes.

This last construction shown is very very unusual for Juliana (D&E) and most of the designs you see with this construction are not Juliana (D&E).

Here is a D&E item that does not use square wire for the design.  It would have been impossible to use a rivet with square wire so they used a setting that has a loop already attached

There are other ways of attaching dangles to jewelry and they are not techniques used by Juliana (D&E).
Not Juliana (D&E)
On this one you can see that the hanger the beads are attached to is not square wire.
Not Juliana (D&E)
You can see from the back that the bead hangers are not square wire but instead flat metal loops.
This in this color and others is very very often called D&E.

Not Juliana (D&E)
This design and others very similar is always called Juliana (D&E).  It is not Juliana (D&E).  It is not done with square wire dangle hangers and the construction would have been fine to have them so that tells you it is not Juliana (D&E).
Not Juliana(D&E)
Here is a close up of the necklace.
Notice it does not have square wire riveted to the back of the chaton.  Instead it has chaton settings that have a bead hanger attached to them.

Lets now summarize what we know about square wire.

  • If it is square wire, it is Juliana (D&E).  
  • If it is not square wire and has a rivet it is not Juliana (D&E).  
  • If it has a built in setting with a loop attached and there would have been no way to use a rivet, it might be Juliana (D&E).
  • If it does not have square wire and the hanger is attached to the side of the chaton setting then it is not Juliana (D&E).