Friday, December 8, 2017

So You Think You Know Juliana Cameo Jewelry

Pink Cameo
I am sure right now many of you are saying.  Hey I know what Juliana (D and E) cameo jewelry looks like.  Most of it is the ponytail cameo girl in different colors with rhinestones set around the frame.  Well if you think that you are missing out on many other cameo designs they did.  I will show you some of the cameo designs I am sure many of you have seen as well as some maybe you did not know about.
Cameo that head has fallen off

This first cameo design I am sure many of you have seen.  It is the pink raised cameo.  One thing some of you may not know is that most of the Juliana cameo's were actually glued onto the face of these stones and in his book Mr DeLizza talks about how the cameo head would come unglued before they could even get them set into the jewelry and they would need to reglue.  This is one of the reasons you see designs like this 2nd one.  It is a cameo that the head has fallen off sometime in the last 50 years.  You see these in many different colors and now some people even collect them this way, but they were designed to have cameo heads on them.
Black and White Cameo

What about this gorgeous white with black cameo design.  While this design is really very similar to the pink one the change in the color scheme really mades for a totally different look.
Black Floral with Cameo overlay

This next design is also a glued on cameo head but this one is glued on a black molded stone instead of just being on a flat stone.  I am not sure if they glued these heads on these stones themselves making their own cameo design or not.  I suspect they might have as I am not sure I have ever seen another company with this design.  This one is in black but they also did it in other colors.

The next few cameo designs you may have never seen before.  This design is a different cameo girl and she is set in a metal framework molded in the D and E factory.  They did this design in other variations too.   This design is shown in Mr DeLizza's book on page 119 and dates to 1972. 
Cast Setting Cameo Design

We also have this cool brooch that is a cameo set in a molded frame with a giant metal bow at the top. 


Bow Cameo Brooch
Now how about this next cameo with the frame done out of ribbon.  There is also a necklace where the chain is also ribbon.  It was also done in other colors.  In his book Mr DeLizza says and I quote: "We were really fortunate to keep coming up with the new items each year to keep ourselves going.  It was never easy, you had to be willing to take chances. One of the most interesting items we ever put together was a cameo group.  Tony Zangara took some velvet ribbon and wove it around the edges of pins and earrings.  We sold some of it, but customers would not buy it, they were afraid it would have no shelf life and the velvet ribbon would get dusty and dirty on the counter, and would not sell.  What a tragedy for them - it was  a beautiful item."  This was in the 1967-1969 Chapter.
Ribbon Cameo
Dog Collar Cameo

We also have this great dog collar or choker style cameo with heart scrollwork and a tassel.  It was also done in other colors.

Juliana (D and E) also did cameo's that are flower and butterflies as well as ones that are actually intaglios (the design carved into the back of the stone).  They also did some that look like cameos but are painted on like this next blue cameo.
Blue Painted Cameo


Another thing to know is that all Juliana cameos are not true cameos carved out of stone or rock.  They are all factory made glass or plastic.

Next week I will continue with the cameo's showing some of the non lady head cameo's and the intaglio's.



Thursday, November 30, 2017

Juliana Christmas Jewelry Rarest of the Rare

So right now you are probably thinking why is she saying Juliana Christmas brooches are the rarest of the rare.  I see Christmas brooches listed as Juliana (D and E) all the time.  Well they are not Juliana (D and E). Many people think that since Juliana made so much jewelry over so many different years there must be tons of Christmas brooches of theirs running around.  Well there is not and here is why.


From Mr DeLizza's book on page 70 in the chapter dealing with the 1964-1966 period he states and I quote: "We made a group of Christmas pins - something we did not regularly do - but I had picked up a new customer from a friend of mine, at 225 Firth Avenue, the gift building."  

The first three brooches shown here are the Juliana (D and E) Christmas brooches that had been found at the time my book was published.  Since that time one more Christmas brooch has been found (the double bell) and we are still on the hunt for the last one, the double candle).  We knew what Christmas brooches there were we just needed to find them.  Unfortunately I can't take credit for finding any of them first.

The colors on all the brooches are the same it just looks different as the photos were taken by different photographers.

These Christmas brooches have actually been very easy to identify as for sure being Juliana once found.  All have the traits we look for in Juliana Jewelry.

The wreath has a square wire wrap over holding the candle and also the candle stem is made of figure 8's.  

The bells also have square wire hangers for the crystal beads.  


The Christmas tree has a cast stem.

The holly leaf also has the cast stem.

For those who are wondering why do I consider this cast stem a Juliana trait, note it is a certain design of the cast stem that is the Juliana trait.  In Mr DeLizza's book on page 31 he stated and I quote" "Father also had Tony Catoni, our model-Maker, make us strips of 18pp castings".

I hope this Christmas blog has helped to clear up the idea that there are tons of Juliana (D and E) Christmas brooches out there.  There are not.  Now there are items that are done in Christmas type colors but they are not specifically Christmas themed in design.

Next week we will talk about Juliana Cameo's.  You may think you know their cameo's but there are many more designs than you realize.

Wednesday, November 22, 2017

The Unusual - Juliana Cut Metal and Tubing Jewelry

Buy Now - Juliana Cross Necklace
Our Unusual topic of the day is the jewelry Juliana (D and E) made with cut metal and tubing.  They used this cut tubing in so many different ways.  In his book Mr DeLizza says on page 92 and I quote: They had a great selection of tubes and squares they they would cut either straight slices or on a bias. This chapter dates the start of these designs to 1970.

Buy Now - Hot Balloon Necklace
  This first example is a new find.  It is a faux turquoise cabochon cross with cut tubing inside the cross frame. The frame is made of cut squares.

My next item uses cut tubing along with ball chain.  Ball chain is something Juliana used all the time and I will have a later training blog on that. You can see this necklace uses oval cut tubing where the previous one used round.  I have showed a close up of the necklace so you can really see the tubing.
Red Cabochon Curved Tubing Set

Juliana did not only use the tubing in little cut sections.  They used long curved sections of it as well. The red necklace shows long curved sections of tubing and they ran the necklace chain though the tubing.  They did many different variation on this design.  However not all tubing with chain though are Juliana as others saw and used this same idea.

Patriotic Cut Metal Pendant
Buy Now - Topaz Flower Pendant
Another cut metal design is this great pendant that used cut metal that is ridged.  It makes for a very unique and wonderful look.

Here is another example with long oval tubing cut at a bias.  It has rhinestones set in between to make a sort of flower look.

Buy Now - Circle Bracelet
My final example is a bracelet that they also made a matching brooch and probably other pieces as well. So far I have only found the brooch and the bracelet  It makes for a very unusual bracelet for Juliana.  Notice the different sizes of cut metal and tubing accented with clear rhinestones. 

Next week will take a break for a while from "The Unusual" and talk about figurals.  Next week will be the Juliana Christmas figurals as those are the brooches that are some of the most wrongly identified pieces out there.



Thursday, November 16, 2017

The Unusual - Juliana Charms



Buy Now Fox Hunting Earrings
I have decided to approach this blog post slightly differently than the previous ones.  This change for this week is due to the fabulous pair of Juliana earrings I found today that I want to share and also that totally tie in with our topic of the day.  You say what am I talking about, well I am talking about these huge 4 inch long Fox Hunting Charm earrings shown here on the left. 


Fox Hunting Bracelet and Necklace
Now you are probably saying is she crazy.  Why does she think those earrings are Juliana,  I would never have pegged them as Juliana.  Well that is where the fun from this "unusual" topic comes in.  Yes Juliana did make fabulous charm jewelry and this blog post will show just a taste of them.

First here is the Fox Hunting necklace and bracelet that goes with the featured earrings.  According to Mr DeLizza's book pictured on page 149 this design was made for Dottie Smith (and probably sold to others) and dates to 1985.
Buy Now - Charm Necklace

Next is the Charm Necklace that was made several different ways.  It was made as shown her both in gold tone and silver tone.  It was also made with a variation in some of the charms including the center charm which was switched for a larger heart shaped rhinestone one and sold to Les Bernard.  The large center heart charm was signed for Les Bernard.  There is also a bracelet for this design and several different types of earrings.  This design is also pictured in Mr DeLizza's book and dates to 1989.
Starfish and Bead Charm Necklace

The next necklace is a wowzer.  It is the starfish and beads charm necklace.  Many of the starfish are plastic as are the beads, so it is pretty light weight for such a large necklace.  It is also pictured in Mr DeLizza's book on page 140 and dates to 1979.


Carol Dauplaise Cord Charm Necklace
Now we continue on into this wonderful charm necklace made for Carol Dauplaise and sold in different variation also not signed. (pictured at right)  It has asian style coins, leaves and other charms.  It is done on a twisted cord that was also done in other colors.
Buy Now - Mayan Earrings

Now we will talk about the Mayan charm necklace that I have also just found the matching earrings for.   This necklace dates to 1979 and is pictured in Mr DeLizza's book on page 140.  Here are the matching earrings as I don't currently have the necklace to show you.

I have hardly scratched the surface of all the charm style designs Juliana did and this blog post could go on for pages and pages.  However I feel I have given you enough to realize the scope of their designs.  There are many asian style charm designs not shown as well as many others.  Many of them can be found in my book and also in my free database of confirmed Juliana Jewelry at  Is It Juliana Jewelry Database.

Next week we will talk about the cut tubing designs that Juliana (D and E) made.


.






Thursday, November 9, 2017

The Unusual - Juliana (D and E) Strung Bead Jewelry


Yellow Beaded Pendant Necklace
Metal Roses, leaves and rhinestones
The topic of the day is the strung bead jewelry that Juliana (D and E) did in the 1970s and 1980s.  The rose flower with leaves set dates to 1989 which is the very end of when Juliana Jewelry was made.  It is done with rhinestones, beads and metal accents.  It features a new cuff style bracelet.
Buy Now - Pink Wood Bead Rhinestone Bow Necklace

The yellow necklace dates to 1973.  This design was done in many many different colors including (cream, pink, yellow, and blue).  Many of which can be seen in my book.

KJL Beaded Choker and Earrings
The coral colored necklace and earrings is signed for KJL and is a 3 stranded choker or dog collar style.  I do not have an exact date on it.

The pink wood bead necklace with the gorgeous large rhinestone center bow with dangles is a mid 1980s design and is found in other colors.

Les Bernard Pearl with large pendant
The pearl necklace with the large center colorful pendant was made for Les Bernard and has multiple strands of faux pearls done torsade style with a large center mogul style pendant.  I also do not have an exact date for this design.
Beads cast circles necklace

Next is a beaded necklace that has a large double circle cast pendant in the center.  Again I do not have an exact time frame for this necklace but I think it was the early to mid 1970s.


Cast Sea Shell Beaded Necklace
The last necklace is bead with cast and painted sea shells and dates to the early 1980s.

As you can see from all these designs Juliana (D and E) used stringing for close to 20 years.  So when you think Juliana (D and E) don't only think rhinestone chaining. 

Next week I will be talking about the charm style necklaces that Juliana (D and E) made.




Thursday, November 2, 2017

The Unusual - Juliana (D and E) Epoxy Jewelry



Stained Glass Pendant
The topic of the day is the epoxy work that Juliana (D and E) did.  This is talked about in Mr DeLizza's book in the 1971-1973 Chapter.  In this chapter he says and I quote: "I also hired a new young designer, Alma Davis, to try and breath some new life into a waning business.  She was suppose to be good with enamel and epoxy.  We bought a baking oven to dry the epoxy.  She worked with the girls in the finishing department and taught them how to dry the epoxy.  She worked with the girls in the finishing department and taught them how to mix the epoxy and pour it into the jewelry and put it into the drying oven.  We made quite a few epoxy pieces that she laid out in sketches and Harry made the necessary models for them."
Epoxy and Plastic Cabochon Butterfly


Big Apple Pendant Necklace
Also in this chapter Mr DeLizza says and I quote: "Harry made models for butterflies which Alma could put epoxy in, with high domed stone for accent." This is speaking of the butterfly on the left.  It was done in many different colors.

Also in this same chapter Mr DeLizza's says and I quote: "At that time the city of New York came up with the name 'Big Apple' for the city.  Apples were everywhere; they became a part of all designs, clothing, and jewelry.  So, of course, we had to come up with a big apple buckle and a big apple pendant.  Alma sketched out a big apple design and Harry made the castings for the epoxy."  The pendant talked about is show here on the right.
Epoxy dots Butterfly brooch/pendant


Kaleidoscope Pendant Page 121
This chapter is just so full of information on the epoxy pieces.  Another quote from that chapter is:"She took our big butterfly and instead of stones put in epoxy dots.

Another design was called the Kaleidoscope pendant and pictured in Mr DeLizza's book on pge 121 and also pictured here.


Epoxy and Plastic Cabochon Pendant

Stained Glass Earrings
There were so many different designs done with this epoxy work that it is impossible to show even a fraction of them.  There are many more shown in my book as well as shown and talked about in Mr DeLizza's book.
Epoxy Abstract Pendant

Next week we will continue with our "Unusual" topic and talk about the strung bead designs that Juliana did.
Epoxy butterfly






Thursday, October 26, 2017

The Unusual - Juliana Heat Formed Plastic Jewelry


Tortoise Butterfly Pendant
Cream Butterfly Pendant and Earrings
To continue with our "Unusual" topic this week I will be talking about the heat formed plastic pieces that Juliana used in it's jewelry in the early to mid 1970's and talked about in his book in the 1971-1973 chapter.  Mr Delizza states in his book that he found a plastic company that could form plastic in many colors into different shapes. 
Blue with clear rhinestones pin/pendant

They made many variations and colors of these designs.  Notice these two butterflies use the same plastic wing design but both give a very different look with different colors and different metal  designs.
Hot Pink Butterfly Pendant

So far the colors that have been found in these heat formed plastics are mauve, pink, black, cream, red, blue, lime green, yellow and orange.  Most of the designs shown here are found in other colors.  I have tried to show some of the designs and all of the colors (I am missing black but the black is pictured in my book).  There may be other colors out there as yet undiscovered.  Maybe you can be the person to find the next color and design.
Yellow brooch and dangle earrings
Orange Leaf Brooch

You can see with the blue design that they even combined rhinestones with these heat formed plastic pieces.  There are other designs with the heat formed pieces with accenting rhinestones including a great necklace also shown in my book. 
Red Anchor Pendant

Also notice the repeat of the sort of navette shaped pieces.  They are used as earring designs for many of the pieces as well as being used in not only the yellow and orange designs but in many others not shown here.

Another tell tale feature you will often see in these designs is the well known Juliana chain end dangle shaped like a heart.  If you see this heart you know it is a Juliana design. Well unless it is a wandering chain which does happen.  The other time you will find it is in the DEC signed pieces which were Juliana designed but manufactured by a different company.  I will later talk about these DEC signed pieces in another blog post.
Lime Butterfly Pendant

Torqoise Heart Pendant
on a neck ring
The lime green butterfly shown uses those same navette shaped plastic pieces.  This is combined with cast metalwork and a lime green cabochon for accent.  Cabochons with metalwork was another common design element in designs of this time period.

In the heart design shown here you can see something else they did with this heat formed plastic.  They did neck rings out of it.  You will find these in different colors with different pendants on them.

Mauve Plastic and Black
Epoxy Pendant
This last design that combines the heat formed plastic with epoxy paint shows what we will be talking about next week.  This design is talked about in Mr DeLizza's book and he called it the Kaleidoscope look.

The epoxy paint designs were also done in this early to mid 1970's design period.  The range of designs they did with these will amaze you.  The butterflies are especially fabulous and varied in these epoxy designs.