Thursday, November 16, 2017

The Unusual - Juliana Charms

Buy Now Fox Hunting Earrings
I have decided to approach this blog post slightly differently than the previous ones.  This change for this week is due to the fabulous pair of Juliana earrings I found today that I want to share and also that totally tie in with our topic of the day.  You say what am I talking about, well I am talking about these huge 4 inch long Fox Hunting Charm earrings shown here on the left. 

Fox Hunting Bracelet and Necklace
Now you are probably saying is she crazy.  Why does she think those earrings are Juliana,  I would never have pegged them as Juliana.  Well that is where the fun from this "unusual" topic comes in.  Yes Juliana did make fabulous charm jewelry and this blog post will show just a taste of them.

First here is the Fox Hunting necklace and bracelet that goes with the featured earrings.  According to Mr DeLizza's book pictured on page 149 this design was made for Dottie Smith (and probably sold to others) and dates to 1985.
Buy Now - Charm Necklace

Next is the Charm Necklace that was made several different ways.  It was made as shown her both in gold tone and silver tone.  It was also made with a variation in some of the charms including the center charm which was switched for a larger heart shaped rhinestone one and sold to Les Bernard.  The large center heart charm was signed for Les Bernard.  There is also a bracelet for this design and several different types of earrings.  This design is also pictured in Mr DeLizza's book and dates to 1989.
Starfish and Bead Charm Necklace

The next necklace is a wowzer.  It is the starfish and beads charm necklace.  Many of the starfish are plastic as are the beads, so it is pretty light weight for such a large necklace.  It is also pictured in Mr DeLizza's book on page 140 and dates to 1979.

Carol Dauplaise Cord Charm Necklace
Now we continue on into this wonderful charm necklace made for Carol Dauplaise and sold in different variation also not signed. (pictured at right)  It has asian style coins, leaves and other charms.  It is done on a twisted cord that was also done in other colors.
Buy Now - Mayan Earrings

Now we will talk about the Mayan charm necklace that I have also just found the matching earrings for.   This necklace dates to 1979 and is pictured in Mr DeLizza's book on page 140.  Here are the matching earrings as I don't currently have the necklace to show you.

I have hardly scratched the surface of all the charm style designs Juliana did and this blog post could go on for pages and pages.  However I feel I have given you enough to realize the scope of their designs.  There are many asian style charm designs not shown as well as many others.  Many of them can be found in my book and also in my free database of confirmed Juliana Jewelry at  Is It Juliana Jewelry Database.

Next week we will talk about the cut tubing designs that Juliana (D and E) made.


Thursday, November 9, 2017

The Unusual - Juliana (D and E) Strung Bead Jewelry

Yellow Beaded Pendant Necklace
Metal Roses, leaves and rhinestones
The topic of the day is the strung bead jewelry that Juliana (D and E) did in the 1970s and 1980s.  The rose flower with leaves set dates to 1989 which is the very end of when Juliana Jewelry was made.  It is done with rhinestones, beads and metal accents.  It features a new cuff style bracelet.
Buy Now - Pink Wood Bead Rhinestone Bow Necklace

The yellow necklace dates to 1973.  This design was done in many many different colors including (cream, pink, yellow, and blue).  Many of which can be seen in my book.

KJL Beaded Choker and Earrings
The coral colored necklace and earrings is signed for KJL and is a 3 stranded choker or dog collar style.  I do not have an exact date on it.

The pink wood bead necklace with the gorgeous large rhinestone center bow with dangles is a mid 1980s design and is found in other colors.

Les Bernard Pearl with large pendant
The pearl necklace with the large center colorful pendant was made for Les Bernard and has multiple strands of faux pearls done torsade style with a large center mogul style pendant.  I also do not have an exact date for this design.
Beads cast circles necklace

Next is a beaded necklace that has a large double circle cast pendant in the center.  Again I do not have an exact time frame for this necklace but I think it was the early to mid 1970s.

Cast Sea Shell Beaded Necklace
The last necklace is bead with cast and painted sea shells and dates to the early 1980s.

As you can see from all these designs Juliana (D and E) used stringing for close to 20 years.  So when you think Juliana (D and E) don't only think rhinestone chaining. 

Next week I will be talking about the charm style necklaces that Juliana (D and E) made.

Thursday, November 2, 2017

The Unusual - Juliana (D and E) Epoxy Jewelry

Stained Glass Pendant
The topic of the day is the epoxy work that Juliana (D and E) did.  This is talked about in Mr DeLizza's book in the 1971-1973 Chapter.  In this chapter he says and I quote: "I also hired a new young designer, Alma Davis, to try and breath some new life into a waning business.  She was suppose to be good with enamel and epoxy.  We bought a baking oven to dry the epoxy.  She worked with the girls in the finishing department and taught them how to dry the epoxy.  She worked with the girls in the finishing department and taught them how to mix the epoxy and pour it into the jewelry and put it into the drying oven.  We made quite a few epoxy pieces that she laid out in sketches and Harry made the necessary models for them."
Epoxy and Plastic Cabochon Butterfly

Big Apple Pendant Necklace
Also in this chapter Mr DeLizza says and I quote: "Harry made models for butterflies which Alma could put epoxy in, with high domed stone for accent." This is speaking of the butterfly on the left.  It was done in many different colors.

Also in this same chapter Mr DeLizza's says and I quote: "At that time the city of New York came up with the name 'Big Apple' for the city.  Apples were everywhere; they became a part of all designs, clothing, and jewelry.  So, of course, we had to come up with a big apple buckle and a big apple pendant.  Alma sketched out a big apple design and Harry made the castings for the epoxy."  The pendant talked about is show here on the right.
Epoxy dots Butterfly brooch/pendant

Kaleidoscope Pendant Page 121
This chapter is just so full of information on the epoxy pieces.  Another quote from that chapter is:"She took our big butterfly and instead of stones put in epoxy dots.

Another design was called the Kaleidoscope pendant and pictured in Mr DeLizza's book on pge 121 and also pictured here.

Epoxy and Plastic Cabochon Pendant

Stained Glass Earrings
There were so many different designs done with this epoxy work that it is impossible to show even a fraction of them.  There are many more shown in my book as well as shown and talked about in Mr DeLizza's book.
Epoxy Abstract Pendant

Next week we will continue with our "Unusual" topic and talk about the strung bead designs that Juliana did.
Epoxy butterfly

Thursday, October 26, 2017

The Unusual - Juliana Heat Formed Plastic Jewelry

Tortoise Butterfly Pendant
Cream Butterfly Pendant and Earrings
To continue with our "Unusual" topic this week I will be talking about the heat formed plastic pieces that Juliana used in it's jewelry in the early to mid 1970's and talked about in his book in the 1971-1973 chapter.  Mr Delizza states in his book that he found a plastic company that could form plastic in many colors into different shapes. 
Blue with clear rhinestones pin/pendant

They made many variations and colors of these designs.  Notice these two butterflies use the same plastic wing design but both give a very different look with different colors and different metal  designs.
Hot Pink Butterfly Pendant

So far the colors that have been found in these heat formed plastics are mauve, pink, black, cream, red, blue, lime green, yellow and orange.  Most of the designs shown here are found in other colors.  I have tried to show some of the designs and all of the colors (I am missing black but the black is pictured in my book).  There may be other colors out there as yet undiscovered.  Maybe you can be the person to find the next color and design.
Yellow brooch and dangle earrings
Orange Leaf Brooch

You can see with the blue design that they even combined rhinestones with these heat formed plastic pieces.  There are other designs with the heat formed pieces with accenting rhinestones including a great necklace also shown in my book. 
Red Anchor Pendant

Also notice the repeat of the sort of navette shaped pieces.  They are used as earring designs for many of the pieces as well as being used in not only the yellow and orange designs but in many others not shown here.

Another tell tale feature you will often see in these designs is the well known Juliana chain end dangle shaped like a heart.  If you see this heart you know it is a Juliana design. Well unless it is a wandering chain which does happen.  The other time you will find it is in the DEC signed pieces which were Juliana designed but manufactured by a different company.  I will later talk about these DEC signed pieces in another blog post.
Lime Butterfly Pendant

Torqoise Heart Pendant
on a neck ring
The lime green butterfly shown uses those same navette shaped plastic pieces.  This is combined with cast metalwork and a lime green cabochon for accent.  Cabochons with metalwork was another common design element in designs of this time period.

In the heart design shown here you can see something else they did with this heat formed plastic.  They did neck rings out of it.  You will find these in different colors with different pendants on them.

Mauve Plastic and Black
Epoxy Pendant
This last design that combines the heat formed plastic with epoxy paint shows what we will be talking about next week.  This design is talked about in Mr DeLizza's book and he called it the Kaleidoscope look.

The epoxy paint designs were also done in this early to mid 1970's design period.  The range of designs they did with these will amaze you.  The butterflies are especially fabulous and varied in these epoxy designs.

Wednesday, October 18, 2017

The Unusual - Juliana Wooden Jewelry

Large Wood Owl Pendant

To continue this week on our topic of unusual Juliana Jewelry I will be talking about their wooden jewelry.  Yes you read that correctly!  Juliana Jewelry made not of the blingy rhinestones they are famous for, but made instead out of wood.  Yes they may be wood, but they are still fabulous and quite rare.

Abstract pendant

You will notice that the different designs repeat many of the same shapes as other of the wooden items.   The owl's wings are the same wood as the sides of the cuckoo clock.  The top part of the cuckoo clock has the same curved wood as the abstract pendant.

Pendant Cuckcoo Clock
I his book Mr DeLizza on page 113-114 says and I quote: "I then found some polished wood pieces and gave them to Tony Zangara and he made a great wooden cuckoo clock pendant, an owl pendant and an abstract one."  So these three pendants are the designs Mr DeLizza talked about.  They are talked about in the 1971-1973 section of his book.

Did these surprise you?  Has this opened your eyes to the fact that Juliana was more than just rhinestones and that you don't need rhinestones to have some fabulous jewelry.

I hope so.  Next week we will continue our Unusual topic and talk about the other thing you see in two of these pendants.  Heat formed plastic.  We will talk about all the designs that Juliana did with heat formed plastic in many different colors.

Thursday, October 12, 2017

The Unusual - Juliana (D and E) Filigree Backs

Today we will discuss filigree backings.  As a general rule Juliana (D and E) jewelry did not design jewelry with filigree backings like seen in other designers jewelry.  However there are a few exceptions to this rule.

This is an EXTREMELY unusual brooch for D&E.  Most everything about is is unusual.  I suspect it was a design desired by a customer and these unusual elements were the only way to construct it as desired.

Also notice the filigree back on this is not the same filigree as seen on the few D&E pieces that do have filigree.

Here is a necklace I am sure many of you have seen.  This is the well known Sunburst design.  You will notice this design has both a filigree back and a support wire. 

Very usual filigree back earrings.  This filigree back is seen in two different designs of Juliana earrings both are large button earrings with rivoli centers but one has these spear shapes stones and the other has just navettes.

Notice the filigree on the back of the brooch.  My guess is it was done instead of a support ring. 

So to wrap up this training I would like you to think about the fact that yes Juliana (D and E) did use filigree backs but they are extremely rare so while you can not rule something out as Juliana (D and E) due to a filigree back you should be highly suspicious that something is not Juliana (D and E) if you see a filigree back.

Thursday, May 26, 2016

Juliana (D&E) - 5 Link Bracelets

Our topic of the day is something that most people seem to think they totally understand and in general really they don't understand.  After all, aren't all 5 link bracelets Juliana (D&E).  The answer to that is NO.  They are not all Juliana (D&E).  There are a number of 5 link designs that are not Juliana (D&E).  Also not all Juliana bracelets have 5 links, they specially made 6 and 4 link bracelets.  However the construction on the 4 and 6 is exactly like the 5 link.

Here are three examples of Juliana (D&E) 5 link bracelets.  Notice the shape of the ovals and the design on the folded over metal between the ovals can vary.  However the folded over metal always meets in the front of the bracelet, not the back, and has a rhinestone or something to cover up that linkage.  Also the metal loops are always oval, not round.
Juliana (D&E) bracelet 
Notice the folded over metal between the oval links is joined in 
the front of the bracelet
Juliana (D&E) bracelet
Notice the folded over metal between the oval links is joined in 
the front of the bracelet
Juliana (D&E) bracelet
Notice the folded over metal between the oval links is joined in 
the front of the bracelet
 Now notice these not Juliana (D&E) bracelets and how their linkages are done.
Not Juliana (D&E) bracelet
Notice the folded over metal between the oval links is looped over the oval
metal and not joined together in the front of the bracelet.  Also notice the end of the bracelet does not have a fold over clasp connected the same way the ovals are connected.
Not Juliana (D&E) bracelet
Notice the folded over metal between the oval links is joined together in the
back of the bracelet not the front of the bracelet like Juliana (D&E)
Not Juliana (D&E) bracelet 
Notice the folded over metal between the oval links is joined together in back of the bracelet not the front of the bracelet.  In this one the links
are round which is also not correct for Juliana (D&E).
To summarize the traits needed to be a Juliana (D&E) 5 link bracelet.

  • the folded over metal between the ovals must meet in the front of the bracelet and be covered with a rhinestone setting
  • the metal must be oval, not round
  • the bracelet must have a large fold over clasp attached to the bracelet with a folded over metal like the other linkages have